Naomi in Fashion
Naomi Campbell, the woman that she is. One of the Big 5 and a pioneer for equality in the fashion industry. The exhibition not only explained how Naomi Campbell rose to fame, but featured the iconic pieces she wore on the runway, at the Met Gala, magazine covers and more.
The exhibit began with the story of how Naomi Campbell was discovered. In 1985 a modelling agent, Beth Boldt, approached her while she was out in Covent Garden… and the rest is history. Despite her fast rise to fame, Naomi acknowledged that early in her career it felt like a whole new world she needed to adjust to and felt she needed to be aloof and cautious in the beginning. As she transitioned into to a modelling career, many photographers drew on her dance and musical theatre background to direct her poses. Her early work involved working with world-renowned photographers such as Martin Brading and Steven Meisel who “Naomi credits with profoundly impacting her career”. “Her meteoric rise is credited to not only her dedication but also the love she had for dance and musical theatre”. In less than 2 years after being discovered Naomi was gracing major magazine covers and walking for some of the most coveted designers. Just at the age of 17, Naomi appeared on the cover of British Vogue photographed by Patrick Demarchelier in Long Island, New York. This 1987 December cover and collection is stunning, as Demarchelier captures her beautiful light-hearted smile during sunrise and sunset at the beach.
Naomi was not only making a name for herself at a young age by excelling at both print and catwalk, she was also making important history. In 1988 Naomi Campbell was the first black woman to appear on the cover of Vogue Paris. This milestone is credited to Yves Saint Laurent Naomi says, as he threatened to pull advertising if she wasn’t cast. Naomi was not only the first black woman to appear on the cover of Vogue Paris but also Time Magazine: where she was chosen to represent the supermodel phenomenon in 1991. The 90s were the first time fashion became mass entertainment and certain models (Naomi Campbell, Linda Evangelista, Christy Turlington, Tatjana Patitz and Cindy Crawford) became known as the original supermodels because of their international acclaim. Naomi was at the centre of this attention with many designers, photographers…etc. endorsing her talent which led to new opportunities of appearing in music videos, talk shows and launching her own perfume allowing her to move beyond the world of fashion.
The Naomi in Fashion exhibit proceeded to include an entire section dedicated to Naomi’s relationship with the designer Azzedine Alaïa. The two first met in 1986 at Naomi’s first fitting for Alaïa which was also her first summer working in France. That same night, Alaïa invited her and Amanda Caseley to dinner, and since then, Campbell grew to be close with Alaïa, becoming a continual appearance at his home in Paris- beginning to call him ‘papa’ while he called her ‘ma fille’. Not only did their relationship become a close, personal one but they also helped each other’s careers flourish. Alaïa became renowned for figure-hugging designs which were inspired by Campbell’s strong physique.
Lovers of the fashion industry have a lot to thank Naomi Campbell for, as not only was she one of the ones responsible for turning high-end fashion into mass entertainment but also an important activist, which this exhibition highlighted. For most of the 20th century there was a racist-fuelled idea that black models couldn’t sell products which meant their work was limited. But, there were a few individuals who broke through and became trailblazers in the international fashion scene. Dorothea Towles is often regarded as the first black model to work with the top French designers, from Dior to Schiaparelli to Balmain. She remembers her time modelling in Paris as “for once I was not considered Black, African American […] I was just American”. Bethann Hardison began modelling in the 1970s, featuring in Harper’s Bazaar and Vogue. But arguably her most important work was the Battle of Versailles charity fashion show- an extremely high-profile event hosted to raise money for the restoration of the Palace of Versailles. This event provided greater visibility to black American models who are “largely credited with Americans winning the ‘fashion battle’”. After an incredible and extensive career, Hardison went on to start her own agency, Click, in 1984. Then, in 1988, Hardison and Iman founded the Black Girls Coalition. As black models were reaching individual success post 1960s, there were still barriers to break through. Many black models still faced unfair pay, colourism and being represented in insulting and exoticised ways. In 2007, many noticed there had been a decline in diversity on catwalks and Hardison organised meetings to call out the people responsible for specifying “no blacks, no ethnics” in casting calls. In response to the poor representation, ‘A Black Issue’ was arranged by Bethann Hardison, Vogue Italy editor Franca Sozzani and styled by Edward Enninful. The magazine had 4 covers, one for Naomi Campbell, Jourdan Dunn, Liya Kebede and Sessilee Lopez. The issue sold out in the UK in less than 72 hours proving that black models could sell and were bankable, Edward Enninful remarked.
While Naomi Campbell is in no way, shape or form a role model, which the exhibition does talk about, if you’re someone interested in the fashion industry you will greatly appreciate this exhibition. And even if fashion isn’t your thing, it’s fun to learn about an icon who created so many well-known fashion moments from her fall at the Vivienne Westwood show in 1993 to her walking the catwalk in pointe shoes for Alaïa to being the face of Ralph Lauren Sport with Tyson Beckford and so many more.
